Breeds & Choosing • Goat Care Guide

Choosing for Your Goals

If your goal is...	Prioritize...	Top Breeds
Family Milk & Cheese	High Butterfat, Good Temperament	Nigerian Dwarf, Nubian
High Milk Volume	Lactation Persistency, Udder Structure	Alpine, Saanen, LaMancha
Meat Production	Growth Rate, Muscling	Boer, Kiko, Spanish
Fiber (Mohair/Cashmere)	Fiber Quality, Hardiness	Angora, Cashmere breeds
Pets & Brush Clearing	Small Size, Docile Nature, Hardiness	Pygmy, Nigerian Dwarf, Miniatures

Breed	Purpose	Size (Does)	Temperament	Best For	Watch Out For
Nigerian Dwarf	Dairy / Pet	~60–80 lbs	Friendly, energetic, curious	Small homesteads, rich milk for cheese, great pets.	Lower total volume, agile escape artists.
Nubian	Dairy / Dual	120–170 lbs	Affectionate, very vocal, dramatic	High-butterfat milk ("Jersey cow of goats"), handles heat well.	Can be very loud, larger feed needs.
Saanen	Dairy	140–180 lbs	Calm, dependable, "Steady Eddies"	Highest milk volume ("Holstein of goats"), generally docile.	Lower butterfat, pale skin is prone to sunburn.
Alpine	Dairy	130–160 lbs	Hardy, curious, adaptable	Reliable high-volume production, cold-tolerant, athletic.	Can be more independent or aloof than other breeds.
LaMancha	Dairy	120–160 lbs	Calm, gentle, dependable	Steady milkers with a docile temperament, easy to handle on the stand.	Distinct "gopher" or "elf" ears are not for everyone.
Boer	Meat	200+ lbs	Generally docile, but large	Excellent growth rate and carcass yield, heat tolerant.	Prone to parasites; not as hardy as other meat breeds.
Kiko	Meat / Hardy	120–180 lbs	Independent, hardy, active foragers	Low-maintenance, parasite resistant, excellent mothers.	Less common in some areas, less muscled than Boers.
Pygmy	Pet / Companion	~60–80 lbs	Docile, friendly, sometimes stubborn	Small size makes them great pets for smaller properties. Very hardy.	Not a dairy breed. Prone to obesity and urinary calculi if overfed.
Angora	Fiber (Mohair)	80–120 lbs	Gentle, calm, somewhat delicate	Producing luxurious mohair fiber for spinning and crafts.	More susceptible to cold/wet weather after shearing and high parasite loads.

Registered vs. Unregistered

When you start looking for goats, you'll see them advertised as "registered" or "unregistered." This refers to whether they have registration papers from a breed association like the ADGA (American Dairy Goat Association) or AGS (American Goat Society).

Registered Goats

Known Lineage: Registration provides a pedigree, so you know the goat's parentage. This is crucial for managing genetics and avoiding inbreeding.
Performance Programs: Registered animals can participate in programs like milk testing (DHIR) and conformation shows, which provide objective data about their quality.
Higher Value: Registered goats and their offspring command higher prices. This is essential if you plan to breed and sell.
Who needs them: Anyone serious about breeding, showing, or improving a specific breed.

Unregistered Goats

Unknown Background: You have no official record of their breeding or genetic history.
Lower Cost: They are typically much less expensive to purchase.
Perfectly Fine For...: Pets, brush clearing, and sometimes home milk production if the goat comes from a healthy, productive (but unregistered) herd.
The Risk: Without papers, claims about breed or parentage are just the seller's word. Always judge the animal based on its own health and conformation.

What to Look For: Conformation Basics

Regardless of breed or registration status, every goat should have sound conformation (physical structure) for a long, healthy life. Here are a few key things to check for when evaluating a goat to buy.

Feet & Legs: Look for strong, straight legs when viewed from the front and rear. Pasterns (the "ankles") should be short, strong, and upright. Avoid goats with weak or dropped pasterns.
Topline: The goat's back should be long, wide, and relatively straight and level from the withers to the hips.
Body Capacity: The goat should have a deep, wide chest and a well-sprung rib cage. This indicates plenty of room for the heart, lungs, and rumen to function.
For Dairy Does: The udder should be high and tight, not low-hanging. The teats should be a reasonable size for milking and point slightly forward and down.
General Health: Always look for bright, clear eyes; a clean, glossy coat; and an alert, active demeanor.

Where to Find Your Goats

Once you know what breed you want, the next step is finding healthy animals from a reliable source. Here are the most common options:

Reputable Breeders

This is the highly recommended option for beginners. A good breeder is an invaluable resource who can provide mentorship for years to come.

Pros: You get access to the goat's full history, including health testing records (CAE, CL, Johne's), vaccination dates, and parentage. The animals are usually well-socialized and healthy.
Cons: This is often the most expensive option upfront. You may have to travel or get on a waiting list for kids.
How to find them: Look for breeders through national breed associations like the ADGA or AGS.

Livestock Auctions

Auctions can be tempting due to lower prices, but they carry significant risks for new owners.

Pros: Goats are readily available and often cheaper than from a breeder.
Cons: You have no health history. The animals are stressed from transport and exposure to many other goats, making them highly susceptible to illness. You could unknowingly bring home serious diseases. Not recommended for beginners.

Online & Local Classifieds

Sites like Craigslist or local farm Facebook groups can be a mixed bag. Proceed with caution.

Pros: Can be a good way to find local homesteaders or hobby farmers selling surplus animals.
Cons: Quality and health vary wildly. Always insist on visiting the farm to see the living conditions and the rest of the herd. Ask the same tough questions you would ask a reputable breeder regarding disease testing and health history.

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